Having CSS disabled doesn't help unless you go through the effort of removing images as well, as they are repeated twice (and sometimes 3 times). The paragraph structuring is also terrible.

Firefox's reading mode is also confused.

For some reason Firefox reading mode starts about half way down the article.

I can't read it at all without just removing the style. Insane. Fascinating article though, worth the effort.

Pages used to have a "printable version" button, whatever happened to those?