GWT on AppEngine (which it has great integration for) has a ten second startup time when not loaded, and on the free tier they unload it when not in use, so that's not the greatest.
I used GWT for a while and it would be great for enterprise and large teams. The static typing which I usually love/insist on though, does seem pretty cumbersome for something as simple as a web page. I've switched to scala play for the back end and lots of tiny angular 'apps' on the front, and it's so much faster to develop for.
a lot of people who i've spoken to have the same impression of GWT (that it's slow, and not "webby"). I suspect it's because it has the same UI library model as java Swing, and that has the reputation of being slow (thru no fault of java to be honest - its usually the programmers who made it slow, when it could've been fast).
http://www.google.com/fonts <-- loads fast for me. In fact, i think GWT apps can do loading in such an optimized way that hand coding js will only beat it if the programmer is very very careful about it.
(ps, i have no affiliation with google, i just don't like mistunderstood tech to suffer…)
I don't think the SEO nature of GWT is fundamentally different from Closure or Angular.