You couldn't be more right. I seem to recall people being really grumpy about Majora's Mask for being "weird" and not very Zelda-y, and now it frequently appears in "best game ever" lists.
Try the 3DS port. I ground through the N64 version when it was first released, due to a sense of "I paid for this, so I'm gonna darn well finish it," but the 3DS version adds hints/accessibility that make it a lot more enjoyable.
Yep, that's what happened to me the few times I tried to pick it up. I'm a huge Zelda fan but MM just feels like a chore. I really don't like the whole calendar-based thing, having to do the same things multiple times, having to revisit the same location over and over again. It kills the sense of progress that makes other Zelda games great. By far my least favorite...